Overview
Mon Mar 3
Up at 5.45 – breakfast at 6.30. Fine day with wouth-west breeze. Cycled down to wharf + put bike and luggage on little lake steamer “Tongariro”. A large number of passengers – mostly Wairakei + Taupo acquaintances. Steamer left at 7.10.
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She was manned by captain and engineer + burned coal. As soon as we got out of Tapuaeharuru Bay we struck big seas + going directly into the teeth of the wind the “Tongariro” pitched in great style – sometimes the bows dipped (to those seated in the stern) far below the horizon and then rose equally high above it – once the bows lifted clear + fell back on a trough with a loud slap – a great sensation + I enjoyed it very much. Three of the younger ladies very ill. Picked out points of interest – the extinct volcanic cones round edge of lake, capes Motu Taiko the solitary island, Karangahape Cliffs etc. Further out it became calmer. Saw the huge ship on the lower slope of Kakaramea vol. – this cam down in 1910 and buried part of the Maori village of Waihi. Passed the great willow-fringed deltoid plain which the upper Waikato is building out into the Lake – the river has many mouths. Reached the Tokaanu jetty at 10.20 am
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having each been relieved of 12/6 by the captain we disembarked. Set aneroid by lake-level and started at once for Waiouru at 10.27. Passed Tokaanu, a straggling Maori-Pakeha village + followed road behind small detached hill – gradually curing round the NE base of Pihanga, the extinct vol[cano] cone with a quarry-like crater in top – the upper part of mountain is wooded + the lower slopes covered with tussock, fern and scrub. The road proved very rough right from start, being paved with manuka, but there was not much sand. Passed road to Taoupo + crossed Poutu River by a bridge. Then the road to Waimarino is passed on the right about 10 miles out. Sighted coaches behind when I had reached the 33rd mile (11th) mile ped but they did not pass me until the 30th peg from Waiouru. Had a snack at a stream at 1.30 – then passed Mrs McNeal’s “rest house” at 28th peg. The coaches were there – grooms changing horses and
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Passengers taking refreshments, so again got ahead. They again passed me at the 23rd peg. After this the road became deadly – up grades and heavy sand. Forded the Pangarara Stream – very slow progress. Crossed Waihohonu Stream + reached road to Ruapehu Mtn house at 3.55 – still an up grade and sandy most of the way. The day was very clear + I got magnificent views of Ruapehu + Ngauruhoe, the latter emitting a plume of white steam. The sand where the road crossed the edge of the Onetapu Desert was awful – could hardly push bike. Crossed upper reach of Waikato R at 4.56. Again crossed bare sand of Desert – did not take deviation to changning stables at 12 ½ miles from Waiouru – and reached the highest poing between Tokananu + Waiouru just after 35235 ft. Had another snack at 12th mile peg. Struggled on and road improved – less sand. On long down grade near 7th mile peg while pulling on
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pace, struck sandy patch + came great spill. Found front wheel buckled + had to stand on it to get it to go round – thought I was out for the night. Rode on in dusk and darkness crossing Waitangi Stream + passing Peter’s bdg-house + reached Waiouru rly-station at 7.25 – aneroid registered 2730 ft – only 70ft too much. Found Kennedy’s bdg-house burned down so decided to go on to Palmerston N[orth] by 11.20 train. A friendly porter got me a lamp + put me in the ladies’ waiting-room where I had a wash and changed clothes. On emerging I met the coach tourists and many expressed their pleasure at my safe arrival – they did not expect me to get through. Then I met Jack Badger who is working on a sheep-station near by – he stayed + yarned for a long time. After a long cold wait caught the 11.20 Auckland Express, and reached Palmerston at 3.15 – waited another 3 ½ hours, getting in a bit of sleep on a bench, + caught 7 am
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Train to Levin, feeling very, worn + sad.
[following 20 ½ pages contain altitude readings from Woodville to Waiouru via Napier and Taupo as well as from side trips]