Overview
Whatu is the main technique used to weave Māori cloaks. The weaver twines the threads with her fingers – no looms are used. Explore this form and its variations.
A twining technique
The technique of twining is very old and is used throughout the world, but Māori developed their own unique style called whatu.
In whatu, there are two groups of threads – the aho (weft, or horizontal threads) and the whenu (warp, or vertical threads). The threads are usually made from muka (flax fibre).
The weaver first prepares enough whenu for the width of the cloak. She twists each whenu with the first aho to form the base line of the cloak. She then ties it between two upright turuturu (weaving pegs).
From this base, she builds the cloak, row by row. It's a daunting task that can take months, or years, to complete.
Types of whatu – single and double threads
There are two main types of whatu:
- whatu aho pātahi (single-pair weft-twining)
- whatu aho rua (two-pair weft-twining).
Single-pair weft twining
In single-pair weft-twining, two aho (horizontal threads) twist around each whenu (vertical thread). One aho passes in front of the whenu, the other behind.
The weaver can leave spaces between the aho, as on most pākē (rain capes), or can weave the aho closely together to make a very strong fabric.
Two-pair weft twining
In two-pair weft twining, two pairs of aho are worked together.
The aho can be spaced or woven compactly. In the past, the spaced version was used for more refined rain capes, and for almost all fine cloaks. Today, it is used by most weavers.
Tāniko – a clever innovation
Tāniko is a very innovative form of whatu, which Māori developed by introducing coloured horizontal threads. They learned to bring different coloured threads to the front. In this way, they could create intricate geometric designs in many colours for the borders of their fine cloaks.