item details
Overview
Marie-Louise Bruyère, who was active in Paris from the 1920s through to the early 1950s, designed this softly tailored gown and cloak.
The slim-line dark, bottle green evening gown is ankle length and features a slit at the lower centre front, a straight cut bodice with wide shoulder straps, the main detail being a shell-shaped pleated detail to the central waist area which creates a draped effect to the gown, and a narrow belt. The back of the dress is low and features two overlapping curved panels. The gown is made from a fine wool fabric.
The cloak is also full length, and is made from a double-faced wool - the outer is a deep ruby red, while the inner features a large check pattern in bright colours including yellow, red and green (and other colours where the checks overlap and the warp and weft threads create other colours). The cloak is shaped at the shoulders but is otherwise very plain, with a short mandarin collar secured with two heavy hook and rouleau loops which are not visible when the cloak is worn.
From velvet to wool
This ensemble was sent to the New Zealand Wool Board by the International Wool Secretariat (IWS). The IWS worked closely with the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne to promote fashions in wool. Originally, Madame Bruyère had designed the cloak to be worn over a green velvet dress. However, when Mary-Annette Hay (née Burgess), the Wool Board's Promotions Officer, first saw the ensemble she used her developing relationship with the International Wool Secretariat to enquire if the style of gown was available in wool. Bruyère obliged, and made a new gown in a fine wool to match the cloak. The gown and cloak featured in many of Mary-Annette’s wool productions as a perfect outfit for the opera.