Blouse

This is a puletasi - a formal yet elegant Samoan dress worn for a variety of occasions by women. It consists of an ‘ie lava lava with straps that tie around the waist with a blouse and matching jacket. The ‘ie lava lava and jacket incorporate matching ‘elei fabric (hand printed fabric decorated with siapo inspired motifs and patterns).

This puletasi was worn by New Zealand born Samoan, Dame Luamanuvao Winifred "Winnie" Laban when she gave her maiden speech in New Zealand’s parliament in 1999. Luamanuvao was the first Pacific Island and Samoan woman to become a Member of Parliament and a minister of the crown.

According to Luamanuvao, her decision to wear a puletasi was to mark her Pacific island womanhood and the representation of all Pacific island women. For Luamanuvao, this puletasi reflects notions of pride, Pacific island femininity, lineage and continued conversations on identity, "a reflection of our mothers, aunties - women within the Pacific community who have continued to express their elegance in how they present themselves."

Luamanuvao described her intentions behind wearing a puletasi as continuing the conversation around recognizing Aotearoa as part of the South Pacific - recognizing examples of successful New Zealand based Pacific islanders through professional sports and the arts - honouring Pacific islanders as part of the threads that make up the New Zealand identity.

Winnie Laban was born in 1955 in Aotearoa, Wellington to Samoan born parents. Before becoming a Member of Parliament, Winnie Laban was a family therapist and community development worker. In 1992 she was bestowed the Samoan matai (chief) title Luamanuvao from the village of Vaiala, Vaimauga in Samoa. This was partly in recognition for her work in the Pacific Islands community.

In 1999 she served as a member of parliament for the Mana electorate In New Zealand representing the Labour party. Laban became the spokesperson for Pacific Island affairs, whilst also striving to implement mental health support systems that recognised the rights and entitlements for Pacific island families with a family member with mental health issues. Winnie Laban resigned from Parliament in 2010 to take up a new role as Assistant Vice-Chancellor (Pasifika) at Victoria University of Wellington. In addition to her many accolades, she was appointed a Companion of the Queen’s Service Order for services as a Member of Parliament in 2011 and was appointed a Dame in 2018.

This puletasi was designed and made by a member of the Samoan Smith family. At the time, they produced this puletasi under the name ‘A-Nu-U’. It consists of 3 pieces, the ‘ie lavalava skirt with ties, a blouse and a matching jacket. Laban and the designer were keen to explore traditional and contemporary design. This is marked by the tailored addition of a jacket that features panels of siapo styled motifs framed by cream coloured cotton. This has also been translated as a border along the bottom of the skirt. The construction and aesthetic of this design transcends the traditional puletasi. The tailored jacket and blouse indicate corporate attire, where the patterns and ‘ie lavalava maintain the socially recognized elegance attached to puletasi among Samoan women.

This puletasi was offered to Te Papa by Luamanuvao Winnie Laban in 2011.

Personal comms with Luamanuvao Winifred "Winnie" Laban 16.02.18

Luamanuvao Winnie Laban, ‘Maiden Speech’, 15 February 2000, Hansard, vol. 581, NZHR, Wellington, 2000, pp. 472-3

Kuramitsu, M. ‘La’ei Samoa: From Public Servants’ Uniform to National Attire?’ P.33-58. JPS. Vol. 125. No.1.