needle lace

With "bobbin lace," one of the two primary types of handmade lace. It is characterized by being created with a needle and thread on threads laid down over a pattern, using basically only one stitch is used, buttonhole stitch and the knotted buttonhole stitch. The process is believed to have been developed in Italy in the fifteenth century, inspired by drawn-thread work and cutwork on linen. Generally, the design is drawn on a piece of paper or parchment that is backed with cloth or another material; the design is outlined with a stitch that serves as the supporting framework for the piece. The filling and pattern are worked with a needle and a single thread in a succession of buttonhole stitches that do not penetrate the backing; stitches are worked in close rows to form the solid parts of the pattern and loosely to form a mesh. Straight lines of stitching may be added to support further stitches; bobbin-made or woven tape is sometimes used for parts of the design. A knife is passed between the two layers of backing to release the design.