Evening dress, woman's

item details

NameEvening dress, woman's

ProductionEsther Nitschke MBE; weaver; 1977; New Zealand

Classificationdresses, overdresses, evening dresses, caftans

Materialswool, synthetic fibre

Materials SummaryHand-spun, hand-dyed wool

Techniqueshand weaving, hand spinning, dyeing

DimensionsCentre back: 1235mm (length)

Registration NumberGH016006

Credit lineGift of Mrs Jean Beaton, 2008

Overview

Esther Nitschke wove this garment for exhibition at the Nelson Wool Festival Fashion Parade in 1977. The gown was subsequently exhibited at the National Conference of Spinners & Weavers in Dannevirke, where is caught the eye of Jean Beaton who purchased it.

The dress features a handwritten (in black) on cotton fabric that reads: 'Esther Nitschke/36" Bust/28 Waist/38-40 hips./5ft 7 high'

Two in one

The garments comprises a full, length fitted, sleeveless gown and an attached caftan-style overdress which is attached at the shoulders. Both elements are constructed from hand spun, dyed and woven wool. The dress features a fine pale pink wool warp, with a thicker variegated (pale to darker pink) wool weft. The overdress is woven from a fine wool warp and weft, the colour graduating from pale pink at the outer to a deeper pink towards the centre. The dress is lined with pale pink synthetic fabric.

High fashion inspiration

Esther Nitschke designed the gown after visiting London in 1976, having just attended Convergence, an international fibre arts conference organised by the Handweavers Guild of America, in Pittsburg.

'I was taken to a Knightsbridge shop to look at fashion. This was one of those amazing shops I had seen on the TV with the gold gilt and brocade seats for the client to sit on while top models showed them the garments they hoped to purchase. I couldn't contain my excitement to be in such a grand place, and as I looked around I saw a beautiful pink chiffon dress. When I arrived home I couldn't wait to buy some fine white wool and dye it in the shades of pink to give the shaded effect I saw in the pink chiffon dress. I spun fine wool single ply and wove the fabric for the under dress using the handspun to give a texture to the weave. I was thrilled with the effect. The fine wool was sett at 20 epi and gave me the look I was after'.

Esther Nitschke, MBE

Esther Nitschke originally trained as a bespoke tailoress with the Clapham Brothers Tailors in Wanganui. She became interested in spinning, dying and weaving following her marriage in 1956 to Bruce Nitschke, a farmer in Marton. By 1963 Esther was not only producing her own work, but also teaching weaving nationally. A foundation member of the Palmerston North Spinners & Weavers, she was awarded an MBE (Member, Order of the British Empire) for her services to weaving in 1994.