item details
Overview
This korowai (cloak with tassels) has a muka (flax fibre) base. It has sparse remnants of black hukahuka (tassels) still attached to the garment. The borders are made from coloured wool woven in the triangular patterns typical of tāniko (fine embroidery or weaving in a geometric pattern) weaving. These triangular patterns are very old Polynesian forms related to niho taniwha (monster's tooth notching) found on all types of objects, mats, woven panels, belts, and clothing.
Design elements
Tāniko refers to any ornamental border typically found on mats and clothes. Tāniko patterns are very geometric in form because they can be reduced down to small coloured squares repeated on a lattice framework. These base square forms, articulated in the hands of a weaver, constitute the larger diamond and triangle shapes that are visible in all traditional weaving crafts.
Pātiki or patikitiki (flounder/flat fish: Rhombosolea plebeia) designs are based on the lozenge or diamond shape of the flounder/flat fish. They can be quite varied within the basic shape.
The kaokao (lateral, bend, side or rib) pattern is formed by zigzag lines that create chevrons. These can be horizontal or vertical, open with paces or closed repetitive lines. The design is sometimes interpreted as the arms of warriors caught in haka (fierce rhythmic dance) action.
The niho taniwha pattern is a notched-tooth design found on all types of objects, mats, woven panels, belts, and clothing.
The poutama (steps pattern) is a stepped design signifying the growth of man, striving ever upwards.
Tāhekeheke (striped) designs refer to any distinct vertical patterning.
The whetū (stars), purapura whetū (weaving pattern of stars) or roimata (teardrop) pattern is a geometric design using two colours and alternating between them at every stitch. This design is associated with the survival of an iwi (tribe), hapū (sub-tribe), or whānau (extended family), the idea being that it is vital to have a large whānau, just as there are many stars in the Milky Way.