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Overview
Korowai kārure are named for the loosely reverse twisted, dyed black variation of hukahuka that adorn the foundation of the cloak. This korowai and another (ME14371) was part of a large presentation of ‘mementos’ to the museum in 1980 from the estate of Sir George Monckton-Arundell, 8th Viscount Galway, who was Governor-General of New Zealand from 1935 to 1941. According to museum records, the korowai was presumably presented to Viscount Galway in Rotorua. The weaver is not known, although future research may reveal the date and circumstances of its creation.
Construction
The kaupapa (body) of this cloak is muka (New Zealand flax fibre), weft-twined in whatu aho rua (two-pair weft twining) technique, measuring five whenu (warp threads) per centimetre. Each aho (weft thread) row is spaced 60–70 mm apart. Commencement of the korowai is at the bottom. A wooden aurei (cloak pin) fastener is tied to a three-ply, rolled muka cord at the proper right top edge.
The cloak is bordered with brown kiwi feathers on all four sides. There are three red kākā feathers and a cream-brown barred kākā feather hidden among the kiwi feathers. Unusually, there are no aho poka (shaping rows)on this korowai. The kārure are attached at regular intervals across the kaupapa. The top finish is a three-ply whiri (plait), with aditional decorative loops along the top aho row just above the fringed ends of the whenu.
This text is based on an excerpt from Whatu Kakahu|Maori Cloaks (second edition), edited by Awhina Tamarapa, © Te Papa Press 2019.