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Overview
The unusual vertical lines of bright wool incorporated into the kaupapa (foundation) of this kaitaka (fine cloak) make an immediate impact, visually reinforcing the aho (weft rows) that are worn vertically in the distinctive paepaeroa style. The shprter poka (shaping rows) are clearly visible in the converging lines of coloured wool. This kaitaka was collected in the mid- to late 1800s and was purchased from the A Eady Estate, Rotorua, in 1977. There is a similar kaitaka paepaeroa, also with coloured wool incorporated into the aho, in the Auckland Museum.
A question of technique
The question of whether the woollen yarn has been twined or drawn through the aho with a needle is open to debate. Researcher Margery Blackman has examined the cloak closely and considers that the wool is twined, as there is no evidence of ‘pulling’. Further investigation could uncover a more definitive answer.
Academic and expert weaver Maureen Lander also suggests that the later addition of wool ‘would give the weaver/embroiderer more control over the design and colour placement’, to create a new and interesting design of cloak.
Patterns
The tāniko patterns are variations of aronui, the triangle motif, along the side borders, and waharua kopito (literally ‘two mouths’), which consists of two diamond shapes on top of each other, along the bottom edge.
Construction
The kaupapa is of twined whatu aho rua (two-paired weft twining). There are eight whenu (warp threads) per centimetre, with 5 mm spacing between the aho rows. The wool yarn appears to have ween twined into the aho wefts, similar to the way pāheke were attached.
The aho poka (shaping rows) are wedge inserts, from left to right, as follows; twenty rows from the top, nine rows from the bottom, four rows from the top, and twenty four rows from the top. The tāniko count is ten whenu per centimetre on the lower border, which is 130 mm deep. The side borders are 70mm wide. Green, red, and purple wool is included in the tāniko design. The whenu from the kaupapa continues as the whenu for the side tāniko, with extra whenu added. A three-ply whiri finishes the lower-edge tāniko with the discarded whenu turned to the back.
This text is based on an excerpt from Whatu Kakahu|Maori Cloaks (second edition), edited by Awhina Tamarapa, © Te Papa Press 2019.