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Overview
"Today, everything is a korowai. But I can distinctly say this is a korowai."
- Kahutoi Te Kanawa - Māori weaver
Like all classic korowai, the kaupapa (foundation) of this cloak is covered with fine, undulating rows of rolled black hukahuka cords. The korowai class of cloaks is distinctive for its surface decoration. This korowai also has randomly attached muka (New Zealand flax fibre) tassels, a twentieth-century fashion, mingled with the graceful traditional hukahuka.
Two rows of black and gold fibre fringing run along the bottom, and blocks of the same fibres alternate down the side edges. The fibre is coarse and may be tī tōī (mountain cabbage tree), rather than muka.
Bought by the previous owner from a sale in the Hawke's Bay, the korowai was purchased by Te Papa in 2001 at a public auction. So far this is its only known history.
Construction
The kaupapa is muka, weft twined in whatu aho rua (two-paired weft twining) technique. There are seven whenu (warp threads) per centimetre, with 8 mm spacing between each aho row. The kaupapa is covered in black hukahuka, some of which have attached muka tassels. Each top corner has a 50 mm corner fringe. The fringing along the bottom is joined to a row of black and gold two-ply ornamental twists. The sides have a 30 mm border of black and gold fibre, with blocks of the fibre attached on every aho (weft row).
The aho poka (shaping rows) are in single rows, 150 mm, 240 mm and 280 mm from the bottom edge, and six rows 320 mm from the top edge. The final finish at the top is a single whenu spiral with another row of decorative spirals in natural muka woven into the final aho row before trimming.