Farmer's smock

This farmer’s smock (smock frocks or labourers’ smocks) was a commonly worn garment by male labourers in England in the 18th and 19th centuries, particularly in the midland and southern regions of rural England, and to a limited extent Wales. Made from heavy linen or wool, thigh to mid-calf in length, and often treated with linseed oil for water-proofing, smocks were worn as utilitarian, washable protective overalls.

Smock frocks are characterised by panels of honey comb smocking across the chest and back, and at the cuffs. While admired for its decorative nature, the smocking was practical in intent - it helped shape the garments, which were made from rectangles so as to avoid fabric wastage, and gave the garment flex and strength to the garment across the shoulders, chest and wrists.  In the 19th century, smocks increasingly featured embroidery, which was applied in a heavy linen thread that matched the colour of the smock. Smocks were typically cream or beige in colour, although some regions preferred specific colours, for example olive green was popular in East Anglia.

More elaborate or ‘dress’ smocks were made for special occasions including Sunday best, weddings, funerals, or to wear to ‘hiring fairs’, and their embroidery might evoke the wearer’s particular occupation (e.g. a shepherd’s smock with sheep or crooks).

With the increased industrialisation of farming and other labouring industries, smocks began to fall out of favour in the second half of the 19th century, as they were hazardous rather than protective when it came to working with machinery – hence the reason that they were not popularly worn in New Zealand.