Smoking jacket and skirt

This bright red smoking jacket and skirt was commissioned by Anneke Borren, a ceramist, to wear to an exhibition opening at the Academy of Fine Arts in Wellington in 1971.

At the time, Anneke smoked a a 'little female pipe' - an affectation that suited her bohemian lifestyle - and wanted a 'smoking jacket' to complete the look. Jane Bezar based her jacket on the classic smoking jacket, which was made from silk or velvet, or both, features a shawl collar and closed with a tie belt and was synonymous with comfort.

Smoking jackets came into fashion for men around 1850, and were adapted for women by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 when he launched his Le Smoking tuxedo suit for women.

Jane Bezar, who at the time was an up and coming Wellington designer, was a friend of Borren's. Bezar had studied fashion at Wellington Polytechnic, graduating in 1970 at the top of her class. She went onto to work in the tailoring department of the House of Raymonde in Wellington, but left in 1972 in order to pursue her own label, first in Karori and subsequently at 276 Willis Street, Wellington. Bezar, who was a flamboyant dresser herself and a favourite amongst local event photographers, specialised in creating glamorous, attention grabbing clothes in flowing fabrics. By 1975 she had opened a second boutique, Why Not, and also started a men swear label, Shirts by Bezar. Frustrated by the limitations of New Zealand, she relocated to Sydney in 1976.

Prior to Bezar's departure for Sydney, Anneke Borren regularly commissioned her to make garments for special occasions, including her wedding and various exhibition openings. Jane Bezar was an important designer in the early 1970s in Wellington, and is symptomatic of a generation of new designers seeking glamour and an alternative lifestyle.