`ie sina (skirt, precious mat)

The `ie sina were shaggy mat-like waist garments worn on important occasions by Samoan women of status up until the early 20th century. The term shaggy mat is an appropriate description of the garments as the entire outer surface of the mat is covered in thin strings or tags attached by a special technique. This made them very clumsy and heavy to handle compared to other similar sized textiles.

Construction

Despite this characteristic the `ie sina is finely made and soft in texture. Its distinguishing quality was its white colour from which it also derives its name. It was made from the bast of the fau pata (Cypholophus heterophyllus). The fine and delicate appearance of the `ie sina was achieved by splitting the fibre into very narrow wefts with a shell. Fibre tags attached during weaving created the shaggy appearance of the `ie sina. On completion the whole garment was bleached by soaking it in sea water and drying it in the sun. Later it would be repeatedly washed in fresh water and treated with the leaf of the fisoa, which assisted the garment in developing its white colour.

Shaggy garments were also stained a dark red using a mixture of earth in a wooden bowl or black by submerging the garment in the mud of a swamp. The dark red garment was called `ie ta`ele after the soil used to colour it, the black garment `ie fuipani after the pani bark stain used to ensure that the swamp mud adhered. The `ie sina and `ie fau are no longer made today and seem to have almost disappeared from living memory.

Acquisition History

This ‘ie sina was purchased from an auction house in 1916. There is no record of its origins.