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Overview
This large woollen paisley shawl was probably woven in the textile mills of Renfrewshire, Scotland between about 1840 – 1860. The swirling pattern, known as paisley, takes its name from the town of Paisley, a Scottish mill town that became famous for its factory-made shawls.
It is typical of the style of shawl that was very popular and fashionable in Britain in the mid-1800s. They were often given as a gift to a bride, and like this one have become treasured family heirlooms passed on from one generation of a family to the next.
The design of paisley shawls originates from Kashmir, and is a blending of a Hindu and Arabic motifs. The original handwoven shawls made in India and Pakistan were each a unique work of art made using a twill tapestry technique and woven from the finest fibre – the undercoat of wild Tibetan goats.
The invention of the Jacquard loom revolutionised weaving and enabled factory-made garments to be produced much faster and more cheaply than ever before. The popular but expensive Kashmir design could now be replicated in weaving factories. A newly discovered Kashmir shawl was reproduced within eight days, and instead of costing £70 – 100, the Scottish ones cost about £12.
Scottish made paisley shawls satisfied the Victorian taste for opulence and exotic design. They became highly desirable and treasured garments in their own right. This particular shawl was part of an exhibition about ‘Paisley Shawls’ on show in Glasgow in 1923. The exhibition showcased the ‘skill and finish’, ‘beauty and technique’ of the Paisley weavers and designers. As the exhibition catalogue explains ‘The Paisley Shawl outclassed all rivals’.