Chao zhu (court necklace)

In 1766, the Qianlong Emperor (1711–99) laid out strict dress regulations for the court, intending to reinvigorate the Manchu style (from earlier in the Qing dynasty) and reinforce social distinctions within the court. It was as elaborate as its title – 'The Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court' – and covered everything from jewellery to robes. Accordingly, the regulations documented that the chao zhu or court necklace, comprised precisely of 108 beads. The choice of beads determined the social rank of the wearer. The emperor wore pearls, jade, and coral, while members of the court wore semi-precious stones. Each necklace included large contrasting stones that were separated by 27 smaller stones. In this necklace, jade separated the smaller amber beads. Finally three counting strings and a long counter-weight string worn at the back gave the necklace balance and added beauty.