Kahu puakarimu (rain cape)

This exceptionally rare cloak, decorated on its outer surface with puakarimu (club moss) stems is the only example of puakarimu in Te Papa. The kākahu (cloak) is striking, for its bold, chequered pattern of red and black puakarimu stems on the outside, contrasting with the whenu (warp threads) of alternating black-dyed and natural muka (New Zealand flax fibre) threads. The whatu aho pātahi (single pair weft twining) is of natural coloured muka, which shows through the moss stems.


Pūreke
There are many types of raincapes that were woven and utilised by Māori. They come in many different materials, and are made in a number of different ways.

Augustus Hamilton recorded that this cloak was probably from the Taupō district, though the collector was not known. Kataraina Hetet, a weaver of the Hetet whanau, commented on other cloaks of similar technique from the Taupō region that she had seen: 'Dad's (Rangi Hetet) people from Tūwharetoa refer to this type of garment as a pūreke. Only recently a few years back, workshops were held to revive this garment in the area'.


Construction
The kaupapa (foundation) is muka, weft twined in whatu aho pātahi (single pair weft twining) technique except for two rows of  whatu aho rua (two-pair weft twining) at the bottom. The whenu warps measure six per centimetre, with 13 mm spacing between each aho (weft) row. The bottom whenu are left as a fringe, or a thrum commencement. The shaping rows are compound elliptical inserts, cosisting of five rows of aho poka (dart) rows alternating between longer aho rows. This creates a gradual shaping. The attachment of puakarimu is doubled over and added to every whatu stroke on each aho row. At the top of the cloak, groups of five whenu are braided into a three-ply whiri (plait), that continues down the side. Another three-ply whiri, has been sewn over the top useing dyed black and brown muka thread.

This text is based on an excerpt from Whatu Kakahu|Maori Cloaks (second edition), edited by Awhina Tamarapa, © Te Papa Press 2019.